Koh-I-Noor, the Great Star of Africa, the Burton-Taylor diamond, the Mogul Emerald, St. Edward’s Sapphire, the Dom-Pedro Aquamarine, the Hope Pearl, La Peregrina … legendary precious stones bearing magical-sounding names. Once jewels served primarily as symbols of power in the ornate robes of monarchs, in the conduct of court life and as a sign of rank and distinction. Since the 20th century, the myth of diamonds, finest pearls or extremely rare und precious stones has been radically reinterpreted by a small number of jewellers world-wide. Representing one of the most resolutely purist positions is the Munich-based goldsmith and jeweller Stefan Hemmerle.

Jewellery art of the 20th century developed largely from the traditions of previous epochs. Only a few design jewellers embarked on fresh departures: It was René Lalique, Jean Fouquet, Jean Desprès and René Boivin who, in contrast to classical jewellers like Cartier and Boucheron, went their own new way in the first half of the 20th century. Artists such as Alexander Calder, Anni Albers or – somewhat later – Lucio Fontana brought new impulses to jewellery design around the middle of the 20th century. In the course of the1950’s they were joined by the movement of author jewellery. Common to both was the critical distance to precious and expensive materials.

In the past two decades Stefan Hemmerle has succeeded in combining the precious quality of the stones with a reduction of form. In addition to this, he has used unusual materials: aluminium, wood and copper in conjunction with gems – a fifteen-carat diamond, set in iron –, the rediscovery of widely underrated moonstones – conch pearls from the Caribbean – melo pearls that were once reserved exclusively for the Emperor of Vietnam … the height of sophistication, yet without ostentatious virtuosity, concentration on the form, radical simplicity, pure understatement – but still the sparkle of precious stones.
The Neue Sammlung is showing a selection of his jewellery with works on loan from various parts of the world. The Dutch architect Tom Postma has built a special ‘box in a box in a box’, a ‘room within a room’ in the Pinakothek der Moderne, to accommodate the display. The motto is‚ ‘inside outside’, reflection, transparency, minimalism and splendour.

With this exhibition Die Neue Sammlung continues its series of venues highlighting distinctive yet contrary aspects in contemporary jewellery design, including the recurring debate about ‘cheap’ and ‘expensive’ materials. Stefan Hemmerle and his focus on the myth of jewels signify a further position within this spectrum. His approach to design is focussed on the desire to make visible the power, sculptural nature and exceptional quality of colour emanating from precious gemstones and pearls. Created over a number of years, scattered throughout the world and for the most part hidden from general view, his works can now be seen for the first time in a public exhibition.

Book published in a German and an English edition. Texts: Patricia Hambrecht, Jan Walgrave, Janet Zapata et al. 160 pages with numerous coloured illustrations. Collection Rolf Heyne, Munich. 198 Euro.